A pause for healing during menopause: my wellness journey at Dharana, Shillim

By Maya Lalchandani

There comes a point when big-city life just becomes too much. The chaos, the crowds, the pollution – there’s really no escaping it in Mumbai. I needed time out. Menopause had brought with it a flood of unpredictable hormones, emotional dips, and a body that felt like it was no longer my own. Then came the wake-up call: my diabetes, long hovering on the borderline, had tipped over.

Something had to give. I needed a reset. Not the kind you get from a weekend massage or a rushed yoga class between Zoom calls. I needed space. Stillness. Time to breathe.

So, I booked myself into a wellness retreat at Dharana at Shillim, just a few hours’ drive from Mumbai, in the hilly folds of the Sahyadri range. Tucked away inside 2,500 acres of ancient forest – a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site – this retreat promised something I desperately craved: tranquillity and balance.

As the city gave way to rolling hills and thick green forest, I felt myself exhale for the first time in weeks. Dharana, once known as the Hilton Shillim, is now a dedicated luxury wellness space spread over 325 acres that focuses on holistic healing and sustainable living.

Their philosophy is rooted in ancient wisdom, backed by science and wrapped up in an aesthetic of calm. It sounded perfect. But could I really switch off from work, turn down the volume of my day-to-day life, and just be?

Turns out, I could. And I’m glad I did.

From the moment I arrived, everything slowed down. My villa was nestled deep in the forest like a self-contained hideaway – spacious, peaceful, and completely private. Waking up to birdsong and the scent of trees instead of honking horns was surreal. It felt like I had stepped into another world.

Dharana’s programme begins with a bioenergetic consultation. I met Dr Arun Pillai, the retreat’s Director of Wellness, who introduced me to their five healing pathways, inspired by the Panchamahabhutas – the five elements. There was a focus on preventive medicine, physical restoration, emotional balance, healing nutrition and spiritual harmony.

Every day at Dharana – which means ‘the art of concentration’ in Sanskrit – followed a gentle rhythm: sunrise yoga, breathwork, healthy (and surprisingly delicious) meals made from organic produce grown on their own farm, nature treks, Ayurvedic treatments and sessions with their team of doctors and healers.

I met Dr Akshay each morning for check-ins using Nadi Tarangini technology – an Ayurvedic diagnostic tool that reads the pulse to detect imbalances in the body. I learned about doshas, prakriti and vikruti, and how every system in our body is interconnected.

One of the most beautiful parts of being there was the absence of noise – not just literal, but mental. This is, of course, due to the yamas (restraints) and the niyamas (observances). Self-discipline is the catchword. No TV. Limited use of phones and laptops (only in private areas). No alcohol. No smoking. At first, these restrictions felt daunting. But very quickly, I realised how freeing it was not to be plugged in all the time.

And then something remarkable happened: I started sleeping again. Proper, restful sleep. It felt like a luxury I hadn’t realised I was missing. That, more than anything, told me I was on the right path.

There were other beautiful rituals, too. Herbal tea in the mornings. Yoga and breathwork to start the day. Visits to the Tranquillity Pool. Slow meals at The Green Table – a restaurant designed to heal, not just feed. One could spend an afternoon in the Pottery Studio, or go for forest bathing – also called Shinrin-Yoku in Japanese, a therapeutic practice that boosts mood, creativity and energy.

One of the most tranquil spaces at Dharana is the Meditation Cave – Dhyana – a cool, quiet sanctuary carved out for moments of reflection. It became my go-to spot for reconnecting with myself, a space where emotional balance and spiritual harmony became possible.

After morning yoga, I often found myself drawn to the Tibetan singing bowl sessions – deeply resonant sound healing rituals that reverberated through my body. They set the tone beautifully for what came next: the Ayurvedic treatments.

I’ll be honest – Shirodhara had always made me a little nervous. The idea of warm oil dripping directly onto my forehead didn’t exactly scream “relaxing”. But as it turned out, it was one of the most profoundly calming therapies I experienced. The steady, rhythmic flow seemed to clear mental clutter. I left the session feeling lighter, both in body and mind.

Another favourite was Choorna Kizhi, a vigorous, sweat-inducing therapy using warm herbal poultices. It’s designed to flush out toxins and boost circulation. Then came Kunye, a traditional Tibetan massage using sweet, nourishing oils, with a focus on the hands, feet, and head.

Evenings brought moments of stillness and shared insight. At night, I joined a Vedanta Dialogue with a few fellow guests – a heartfelt conversation around the ancient philosophy in which we dove into the nature of reality and self-realisation. Each day ended with Sandhya Aarti – a peaceful, candle-lit ritual that left me feeling physically soothed and emotionally whole.

By the end of the week, I noticed real, tangible shifts. My flexibility improved, as did my posture and sugar levels. Even more than the physical benefits, my focus had sharpened. My mind felt clearer, my awareness heightened.

Dharana’s earth-to-table philosophy had also reshaped my relationship with food. Meals were crafted around our individual constitutions, using seasonal fruit, nuts, vegetables, seeds, and herbs. Not only was everything delicious, but it also served as a gentle education in mindful nourishment – a lesson I’m definitely taking home.

This holistic approach to wellbeing offered me a rare window into how interconnected everything truly is – our energy, our gut health, our immune response, even our emotional resilience. I left feeling rested, restored, and also empowered. From textbook knowledge, Ayurveda became a lived experience.

Over five days of detox and quiet transformation, I met people from all walks of life – each with their own health challenges and healing stories. I left with a journal full of notes, a body that felt stronger, and a heart a little more open than before.

The journey to becoming a conscious being, I now realise, isn’t something someone else can give you – it starts the moment you choose yourself. Dharana gave me the tools. The rest is up to me.

Maya Lalchandani is a Mumbai-based entrepreneur, writer, travel influencer and the author of Paiso (Penguin Random House). Follow her on Instagram or write to her at maya.lalchandani@gmail.com.

This article is also available as a podcast in the author’s voice: